When I first told my friends and family I bought a surfboard no one asked me why I decided to start surfing. I’m actually glad they didn’t because I’m not sure I would’ve known how to respond. But I think I have an answer now. Every single time I’ve been out there in between white wash and green swells I noticed it’s never the same. Each day the waves feel different yet it always feels like they’re embracing me. The ocean is a constant friend in a world where things are always changing. The ocean doesn’t care if you’re a pro or if it’s your first time surfing. It will never judge you or shame you, it’ll just keep throwing waves at you, and with each one, a new chance to give it all you’ve got.
I’d heard people say how connected they felt to the ocean when they surfed and I love the ocean so much it only made sense to try it. It’s actually kinda funny, considering that I used to live in a place where I would go to the beach every weekend and I used to hate it and now I wish I could go back in time and go every chance I got. The truth is living an hour away from the beach will make you want to wake up at 4 in the morning so you can get to the beach just as the sun is coming up and dive straight into the water without think twice about it.
There’s simply no better feeling than the one you get when you’re out there sitting on your board and all you see is the next swell and the rest of the ocean behind it. It’s there, reminding you that even if you don’t catch this one, there’s endless more coming your way. There’s something so special about being out there in the water, just you, your board and the ocean. It’s a moment where you can enjoy the quiet or if you chose, you can dwell in the sound of the ocean as the waves roll past you and break along with all your worries.
I am and have always been quite aware that surfing is a sport and not just a vibey activity, there are those who take it very seriously. This used to be something that intimidated me when I first started. It’s scary to see all the great surfers out there and feel like you’re in their way. But surfing is not just one thing and that’s the beauty of it. Just like writing is not just about writing poetry or writing fiction. We can choose how we see it. It might be your passion, your getaway, your therapy, whatever you like. I chose to see it as a way to be closer to myself and the ocean. At the end of the day, the ocean is for everyone and while it will never belong to us, it still welcomes us every time we go to it. If you respect and love it, you’ll find that it will let you become a part of it too.
Val Writes 